Mera Peak Expedition
Nepal's highest trekking peak — 6461 metres — from which five eight-thousanders are visible at once.
- Duration
- 18 d
- Difficulty
- Expert
- Max altitude
- 6461 m
- Starts in
- Kathmandu
- Group size
- 4–12
- From
- $900
About this route
Mera Peak rises in the Hinku Valley, south-east of the Everest region. Its central summit (Mera Central) sits at 6461 metres — the highest of Nepal's officially designated trekking peaks, meaning a mountain you can climb without full expedition-grade alpine credentials, but where crampons, ice axe and fixed-rope work are mandatory.
On a clear day the summit reveals five eight-thousanders at once: Everest (8848 m), Lhotse (8516 m), Makalu (8485 m), Cho Oyu (8188 m) and Kanchenjunga (8586 m). This is one of only four points in Nepal where such a panorama is geometrically possible. Everest sits roughly 25 kilometres away in straight line; Kanchenjunga lies more than 130, and yet on a still morning it is legible as a separate massif on the eastern horizon.
The route bypasses Khumbu Valley altogether — over Zatrwa-La pass (4610 m), down into Hinku, through the Sherpa villages of Panggom and Ningsou, up to Khare and Thaknak. This is the quieter side of the range: no Everest Base Camp traffic, its own rhythm, its own monsoon scars on the stone walls.
We run this expedition over eighteen days so the body acclimatises through Hinku rather than through abbreviated Khumbu staging. That is four or five extra days versus a minimum programme, and it is the difference between reaching the summit and reaching it with reserves intact.
Day by day
- Day 1
- Day 2
- Day 3
2,730 m5 h on trail148 km
- Day 4
2,846 m5 h on trail11 km
- Day 5
2,863 m4 h on trail8 km
- Day 6
2,800 m7 h on trail17 km
- Day 7
3,691 m6 h on trail11 km
- Day 8
4,358 m3 h on trail5 km
- Day 9
5,045 m2 h on trail3 km
- Day 10
5,045 m
- Day 11
5,780 m6 h on trail4 km
- Day 12
5,045 m8 h on trail8 km
- Day 13
- Day 14
3,600 m4 h on trail7 km
- Day 15
4,300 m5 h on trail10 km
- Day 16
2,840 m6 h on trail11 km
- Day 17
- Day 18
Gallery
Safety and health
What you need to know before the route
Physical requirements
The route is rated 8 out of 10 in difficulty. This is an expedition, not a trek. There are few technical elements at the "mountaineering approach" level, but they exist, and the physical demands are significantly higher than Khumbu routes.
What you need to be able to do
Walk 6–9 hours a day with a day pack of 7–10 kg for six consecutive days
Gain 600–900 metres of altitude per day on acclimatisation stages
Endure a night in a tent at 5,780 m with thin sleep and temperatures of −15…−25 °C
On summit day — 8–10 hours of effort above 6,000 m, including 1–2 hours on fixed ropes with a jumar
Confidently put on crampons in snowy conditions while wearing a harness, clip into fixed lines, and perform self-arrest with an ice axe
What about altitude sickness
At 6,461 m the partial pressure of oxygen is around 40% of sea level. At High Camp (5,780 m) — around 48%. This is not Everest, but it is already territory where mild AMS symptoms are nearly universal, and moderate symptoms require immediate descent. The acclimatisation schedule via Hinku (rather than the short variant directly over Zatrawala) gives the body six additional days — this statistically reduces the risk of HACE/HAPE.
Who the route is not suitable for
Pregnant women
People with any form of ischaemic heart disease, uncontrolled hypertension, severe asthma, or sickle cell anaemia
Those who have never been above 5,000 m — we do not take clients on their first serious altitude experience straight to 6,461. Completing Everest Base Camp, Kailash, or the Annapurna Circuit within 12 months before departure is the minimum
Those with no experience using crampons and an ice axe — for them there are alternative tours with a preparatory mountaineering course
Age 60+ — individual decision after consultation, not a blanket prohibition
What we recommend doing in advance
At least one trek to 5,000+ m within 12 months before Mera
One mountaineering course or ascent of Elbrus, Mont Blanc, or Kazbek — preferable
Cardio 4–5 times per week (running 10+ km, cycling 30+ km, swimming) for 6 months before departure; leg and core strength training twice a week
Full medical examination (stress ECG, blood panel, haemoglobin, ferritin) 6 weeks before departure
Equipment
Equipment falls into three categories: critical mountaineering, critical trekking, and important.
Critical mountaineering (without which the ascent is impossible)
B3 high-altitude boots — double plastic or insulated leather, compatible with automatic crampons. Rental in Kathmandu ~$50–80 for the expedition; purchase from $400.
Automatic crampons — Petzl Vasak, Grivel G12 or equivalent. Rental $1–2/day.
Technical ice axe 60–70 cm. Rental $1–2/day.
Mountaineering harness + double lanyard for self-belay + locking carabiner. Your own is preferable to rental (for fit).
Jumar (one) + descender (figure-eight or ATC).
Mountaineering helmet — lightweight, compatible with a hat.
Category 4 glacier glasses for snow climbing — side shields mandatory.
Insulated overmitts + fleece liner gloves — two layers.
Critical trekking
Sleeping bag rated to −20 °C comfort — for the tent sections (Mera BC + High Camp). Rental in Thamel from $1.5/day.
Down jacket with 700+ fill power — for camp evenings and the summit push.
Waterproof shell jacket and trousers — wind and moisture protection, worn over down or fleece.
Thermal base layers — two sets, merino wool.
1 L water bottle + 0.5–1 L thermos — hot water is critical at High Camp.
Personal first-aid kit — Diamox, dexamethasone 4 mg ampoules (on medical advice), nifedipine (for HAPE — discuss with guide without fail), ibuprofen, antidiarrhoeal, rehydration salts, plasters, your chronic medications with double supply.
Important
Telescopic trekking poles
Headlamp + spare batteries (for summit day — minimum two light sources)
Summit pack 35–45 L + rain cover
Mountaineering wool socks 2 pairs + trekking socks 3 pairs
Buff or neck gaiter against dust, sun, and frostbite on the cheeks
Wet wipes, toilet paper (no shower above Namche for 10+ days)
Power bank 20,000+ mAh — no power sockets at High Camp, phones freeze
A few dollars in small denominations for tips and minor purchases
Altitude regime
The route climbs to 6461 m. Above 2500 m the body acclimatizes more slowly: pressure drops and there is 25–40% less oxygen. We schedule altitude gain to stay under 500 m per day above 3000 m and include acclimatization days.
Evacuation
The guide carries a link to Nepali rescue services and the insurance assistance line. The guide decides on evacuation at the first signs of acute mountain sickness (AMS) or injury. Each participant must hold insurance covering high-altitude evacuation up to 6461 m.
Before the trip
- Insurance covering high-altitude evacuation
- Medical clearance from a physician
- At least 4 weeks of cardio preparation
- Personal first-aid kit (we'll discuss the contents)
From
What's included
| Position | Currency | Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
Base price (group ≥10, per person) | USD | $900 | |
NMA Mera Peak permit (spring) | USD | $250 | |
NMA Mera Peak permit (autumn) | USD | $125 | |
Kathmandu–Lukla–Kathmandu flight (per leg, indicative) | USD | $220 | |
Insurance covering mountaineering to 7000 m + helicopter evacuation | USD | $0 | |
Nepal visa on arrival (15/30/90 days) | USD | $30 |
Base price (group ≥10, per person)
USD
$900
NMA Mera Peak permit (spring)
USD
$250
NMA Mera Peak permit (autumn)
USD
$125
Kathmandu–Lukla–Kathmandu flight (per leg, indicative)
USD
$220
Insurance covering mountaineering to 7000 m + helicopter evacuation
USD
$0
Nepal visa on arrival (15/30/90 days)
USD
$30
Optional extras
| Position | Currency | Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
Full gear rental in Kathmandu | USD | $0 | Optional |
B3 boots (rental per expedition) | USD | $0 | Optional |
Tips for guides and porters (recommended range) | USD | $0 | Optional |
Reserved day (Lukla weather hold, per person) | USD | $0 | Optional |
Full gear rental in Kathmandu
USD
$0
OptionalB3 boots (rental per expedition)
USD
$0
OptionalTips for guides and porters (recommended range)
USD
$0
OptionalReserved day (Lukla weather hold, per person)
USD
$0
Optional
The total shown is per participant. The exact price depends on the chosen date and group size.
Upcoming dates
Departure calendar
FAQ
"Trekking peak" is a formal category of the Nepal Mountaineering Association that governs permit and insurance levels, not an indication of actual difficulty. Technically Mera is a snow climb with a short fixed-rope section — no vertical ice, no anchor work. But you must be fully comfortable with crampons, ice axe, jumar, and harness; we have a training day in Khare, but it is calibration, not a course from scratch. If you have never been above 5,000 m and have never walked in crampons — this is not your first tour with us.
Shorter programmes go directly via Zatrawala pass from Lukla into the Hinku valley in 2–3 days. This works for people with prior acclimatisation (for example, if they arrive after a trek to Island Peak or EBC), but statistically the summit success rate on a "cold start" 12-day programme is around 50–60%, versus 75–85% on our 18-day programme for a comparable group. The extra days convert into haemoglobin.
The decision is made 12 hours before departure based on the forecast, and again at dawn in the tent itself. If wind at High Camp exceeds 40 km/h or visibility is below 200 m — we do not go. We have one reserve day in the schedule (day 14). If both weather windows close — we descend without the summit. We do not refund for this (see exclusions), but to be candid: in our statistics over the last 4 seasons across 7 groups, one summit attempt was moved to the reserve day; no group was turned back entirely.
Yes. A standard "trekking up to 6,000 m" policy does not cover Mera — you need insurance that explicitly covers mountaineering to 7,000 m and helicopter evacuation. This is a narrow market: outside specialist insurers (Global Rescue, World Nomads Explorer, AlpenCare) such policies are rare. We send a list of acceptable providers after booking; confirmation is required 30 days before departure — we do not fly without a verified policy.
Mera Central is climbed without supplemental oxygen — this is the norm, not the exception. On the summit you will be in hypoxia (SpO2 ~70–75% is typical), but this is a controlled state lasting 30 minutes. Our group carries oxygen for emergency use (HAPE/HACE), not for the standard summit push. If you have reason to believe you need supplemental oxygen as standard — that is most likely a contraindication for this route; we discuss individually.
Yes, Mera North at 6,476 m is 15 metres higher than Central. But Central is the commercial summit: it has a standard route with fixed ropes already set by Sherpas at the start of the season. Ascending North requires an additional day and is technically more demanding (mixed ice and rock on the final pitch). If the group has the strength, time, and experience — we can include North as an option; this is discussed 60 days before departure.
Exchange $300–500 into Nepali rupees in Kathmandu in advance. On the route — $300–400 in US dollars in small bills for tips (recommended summit bonus: $50–100 for the guide, $30–50 for the assistant, $30–50 for the cook, $20–40 per porter). Cards are not accepted anywhere above Lukla. There are no ATMs on the route.
Based on our statistics over the last 4 seasons, approximately 78% of participants reach Mera Central. Of the 22% who did not: roughly one third were turned back by altitude sickness between Khare and High Camp, one third by weather (summit cancelled with no possibility of a reserve attempt), and one third by a personal decision to withdraw from the summit push at High Camp (physical or psychological exhaustion). Across our groups over the last 3 years there have been no emergency helicopter evacuations from the route, but we plan as though they are a real possibility.
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