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Nira Travels

Island Peak Climbing (Imja Tse)

Twenty days in Khumbu to stand at 6189 metres — your first trekking peak with fixed ropes, crampons and a couple of crevasses on the way.

Duration
20 d
Difficulty
Expert
Max altitude
6189 m
Starts in
Kathmandu
Group size
412
From
$900
Difficulty8/10
Up to 6,189 m
Восход на Лобуче-пик в Непальских Гималаях

About this route

Island Peak is the local name for Imja Tse, a 6,189-metre summit in the Imja valley, east of Namche Bazaar. The name was given by the British explorer Eric Shipton in 1952: from the Chhukhung glacier the mountain looks like an island in a sea of ice. Since then Imja Tse has become Nepal's most popular “trekking peak” — formally not a mountaineering grade, but in practice the upper limit of what you can climb without serious technical training.

The twenty days of the route are not “extra days.” This is the Khumbu acclimatisation scheme: Lukla (2,840 m) → Namche (3,440 m) → Dingboche (4,350 m) → Kala Patthar (5,550 m) → Everest Base Camp (5,364 m) → a rest stop → the climb of Imja Tse. By the time you set out on the summit push at one in the morning on day 14, your body has already slept six nights above 4,000 m and two above 5,000 m. This is not a safety margin — it is the necessary condition for the summit to be physiologically possible.

Technically this is not mountaineering in the sense of Mont Blanc or Elbrus by the south slope, but it is not trekking either. Summit day involves about 350 metres of fixed ropes (jumar / lanyards / abseil descent), two short ladder crossings over glacial crevasses (3–4 metres, on aluminium ladders, as on Everest), a 40–45-degree snow-and-ice slope up to the ridge, and a final couloir. Crampons, ice axe, harness, and helmet are mandatory. For those without rope-work experience we arrange a training day at base camp — that is included.

We don't sell an “easy six-thousander.” Imja Tse is a serious step for most people, and around 20% of participants in any group on this mountain do not reach the summit — usually because of altitude sickness above 5,500 m, or because they run out of time before noon (after 12:00 the firn softens and the wind picks up). That is normal statistics. If you make it, you get one of the most complete views of the Khumbu: Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, and the south face of Everest from a distance at which they stop looking like postcards.

Day by day

  1. Day 1

    Arrival in Kathmandu

    1,400 m

    Meeting at Tribhuvan Airport, transfer to hotel in Thamel. Group introductions over dinner, route briefing, passport copies collected for TIMS and permits. If the flight arrives late, dinner is moved to the morning of day two.

  2. Day 2

    Kathmandu: cultural program and gear briefing

    1,400 m

    Morning sightseeing: Swayambhunath (Buddhist stupa on a hill, the 'monkey temple') and Pashupatinath (Nepal's principal Shaivite temple). Afternoon — personal gear check with the guide, rental or purchase of any missing items in Thamel. Prices in Thamel are 2–3 times lower than in Moscow, selection is wide but quality varies — the guide helps distinguish functional gear from tourist merchandise.

  3. Day 3

    Kathmandu → Lukla → Phakding

    2,652 m4 h on trail

    Early flight to Lukla (often delayed 1–4 hours due to weather). Tenzing-Hillary Airport — a short 527-metre runway with a 12% gradient and a drop at the far end. The flight takes about 30 minutes; trekking begins immediately on arrival. An easy day descending the Dudh Kosi valley to Phakding (8 km). First suspension bridges, first acquaintance with the pace of high-altitude trekking.

  4. Day 4

    Phakding → Namche Bazaar

    3,440 m6 h on trail

    Ascent to Namche — the main administrative centre of Khumbu (10 km). The valley narrows; the classic Hillary suspension bridges begin, the last one hanging 100 m above the river. From the Top Danda viewpoint, Everest's summit is visible for the first time. Namche is the last stop with an ATM, hot showers, and reliable Wi-Fi. At 3440 m, this is the first altitude most people feel noticeably.

  5. Day 5

    Acclimatisation day in Namche

    3,440 m4 h on trail

    A rest day. Morning acclimatisation hike to Everest View Hotel (3880 m, 2 hours each way, 440 m gain) — the finest viewpoint in Khumbu with a panorama of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. Return via the village of Khumjung and its monastery. Sherpa museum. Early night.

  6. Day 6

    Namche → Deboche

    3,800 m6 h on trail

    A long but not steep day (13 km). The trail contours at roughly the same elevation as Namche for about 2 hours, then descends to the Imja Khola river (3250 m) and climbs 600 m to Tengboche Monastery. Tengboche is the principal Buddhist monastery of Khumbu, founded in 1916. If we arrive by 15:00 we attend the evening puja. Night lower down, in Deboche, a quieter village.

  7. Day 7

    Deboche → Dingboche

    4,350 m6 h on trail

    The trail leaves the last rhododendron forest and enters the alpine zone (11 km). To the left — Ama Dablam (6812 m), one of the most photographed peaks in the Himalayas. At 4350 m, many people experience their first pronounced headache or shortness of breath. This is normal; we monitor saturation. Light dinner, 4 litres of water, early sleep.

  8. Day 8

    Acclimatisation day in Dingboche

    4,350 m7 h on trail

    A rest day. Acclimatisation hike to Nangkar Tshang (5090 m, 3–4 hours each way, 700 m gain) — a steep climb to a point higher than our next night's camp. This is the classic 'climb high, sleep low' approach. At the top — the first characteristic view of Imja Tse. Return to Dingboche for tea and rest.

  9. Day 9

    Dingboche → Lobuche

    4,940 m5 h on trail

    Ascent to Lobuche (12 km) past the Everest climbers' memorial (4830 m) — a row of stone chortens bearing the names of sherpas and Western climbers who have died since 1953. This is the place where conversation typically goes quiet. Lobuche — the last settlement before EBC, simple lodges, silty glacier water, wind. Night at 4940 m — a serious acclimatisation test.

  10. Day 10

    Lobuche → Gorak Shep → Kala Patthar → Gorak Shep

    5,160 m7 h on trail

    Morning — move to Gorakshep (5160 m, 3 hours), drop packs. After lunch — ascent of Kala Patthar (5550 m, 3 hours each way) for the finest view of Everest's south face. Kala Patthar stands higher than base camp and gives a direct line of sight to the Khumbu Icefall and the pyramidal Everest summit. Return to Gorakshep for the night — the highest camp so far.

  11. Day 11

    Gorak Shep → EBC → Lobuche

    4,910 m9 h on trail

    Morning — visit to EBC itself. Everest Base Camp in April–May is a tent city of 1000+ people. In October–November — a quiet moraine flat with a few chortens and prayer flags. EBC is not a 'summit'; it is a plateau on the Khumbu Glacier at 5364 m with a view of the Icefall. After a brief visit — descent back to Lobuche for the night (full altitude loss to recover before the summit push).

  12. Day 12

    Lobuche → Chhukung

    4,710 m9 h on trail

    Move to Chhukung (5 km) — the last village before Island Peak BC. The standard route crosses Kongma La pass (5535 m, technically straightforward but long); the alternative goes via Dingboche (shorter, no pass). Route choice depends on group condition and weather. Chhukung — a handful of lodges in a broad valley beneath the north face of Ama Dablam.

  13. Day 13

    Chhukung → Island Peak Base Camp + training

    5,240 m7 h on trail

    Morning — approach to Island Peak Base Camp (12 km) along the Imja Glacier. BC is at 5240 m — a tented camp with no lodges. Tents, sleeping bags, a shared mess tent. After lunch — mandatory training session with the climbing guide: jumaring on fixed rope, abseiling, crampon technique, moving roped together across a ladder crossing. For most participants this is their first hands-on work with such techniques. Early dinner, lights out at 19:00.

  14. Day 14

    Summit push: BC → High Camp → Summit 6189 m → BC

    6,189 m12 h on trail

    Start at 01:00. First section — steep ascent over scree and boulders by head-torch light, approximately 3 hours. Then a snow-and-ice slope: crampons on. Ascent on fixed rope with jumar, approximately 350 m of elevation gain; gradient 40–45°. Mid-route — two ladder crossings over glacier crevasses (3–4 m, double protection). Final section — a steep couloir and a snow ridge roughly one metre wide to the summit. Elevation 6189 m, 360° view: Lhotse (8516 m) and Nuptse (7861 m) appear as walls; Makalu (8485 m) lies forty kilometres to the east; Ama Dablam (6812 m) is below. Descent via the same fixed ropes (abseil); return to BC by 14:00–17:00. This is the longest and most demanding day of the trip.

  15. Day 15

    Reserve day at Island Peak BC

    5,240 m

    If day 14 was unsuccessful due to weather or the physical condition of part of the group — this is the reserve day for a second attempt. If day 14 went well — a recovery day at BC: packing, a slow breakfast, conversations. Descent to Chhukung shifts to day 16.

  16. Day 16

    Island Peak BC → Tengboche

    3,860 m7 h on trail

    Long descent (12 km), shedding 1380 m of altitude. We pass through Chhukung and Dingboche on the way to Tengboche. For the first time in 12 days the air below 4000 m feels noticeably richer — the descent is felt both psychologically and physically. Night at Tengboche, monastery nearby.

  17. Day 17

    Tengboche → Monjo

    2,825 m7 h on trail

    Descent (12 km) through Namche to Monjo — a small village at the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park. The trail passes through rhododendron forests (spectacular in the April–May flowering season). Altitude drops sharply; mosquitoes appear, humidity rises. This is already almost valley terrain.

  18. Day 18

    Monjo → Lukla

    2,840 m7 h on trail

    Final trekking day (12 km). Relaxed pace, no significant elevation gain. By evening — Lukla, dinner at one of the bar-lodges; traditionally, beer with the climbing sherpas (optional). Confirmation of tomorrow's flight.

  19. Day 19

    Lukla → Kathmandu + blessing ceremony

    1,400 m

    Morning flight (often delayed). On arrival — hotel in Thamel, shower, rest. After lunch — a blessing ceremony with a Lama and a farewell dinner with the group. Summit certificates are presented (if registered through NMA).

  20. Day 20

    Kathmandu: free day + departure

    1,400 m

    Morning free for shopping and packing: Thamel is a market for trekking equipment, Tibetan carpets, and silver goods. Transfer to the airport according to flight time.

Gallery

Safety and health

What you need to know before the route

Physical requirements

The route is rated difficulty 8 out of 10. It sits at the lower boundary of technical climbing and the upper boundary of organised trekking. Both physical and technical skill requirements are real.

What you need to be able to do

  • Walk 6–8 hours a day with a day pack of 6–9 kg over mixed terrain

  • Gain 1000 metres of elevation over 8–10 hours on a cold night on day 14

  • Sleep at 4500–5200 metres for eight consecutive nights, two of them at 5160+ m

  • Work a jumar on a fixed rope (ascent) and a descender (abseil)

Technical skills

  • Experience walking in crampons is desirable. If absent — a training day on day 13 is included. Ideally, prior experience on a 4000–5000 m peak with glacier work (Elbrus, Mont Blanc, Kazbek).

  • Experience with rope technique is desirable. Without it — the training day covers the basics.

  • Knowledge of mountaineering knots is not required — we operate on the principle of 'always clipped into something'; knots are tied by the sherpa.

Altitude sickness

Symptoms of mild altitude sickness (headache, nausea, fatigue, disturbed sleep) occur above 4000 m in roughly 50% of people without prior altitude experience. This is not an indicator of poor fitness — acclimatisation genetics are individual. Moderate symptoms are grounds for halting ascent. Severe forms (HACE, HAPE) develop in 1–2% of cases and require immediate evacuation. On day 13 at BC we monitor condition additionally: SpO2 below 75% at rest or pronounced shortness of breath — summit is cancelled individually.

Who the route is not suitable for

  • Pregnant women

  • People with uncontrolled hypertension, coronary artery disease, severe asthma, or epilepsy

  • Those without altitude experience above 4000 m, unless cleared by a physician after serological assessment

  • Those without crampon experience and no opportunity to practise before departure

  • Age 65+ — individual decision after consultation, not a prohibition

Preparation

  • At least one trek to 4000–5000 m within the year before Island Peak

  • Cardio 3–4 times per week plus 2 leg-strength sessions per week for 3 months before departure

  • Basic medical check-up (ECG, general blood count, biochemistry) 4–6 weeks before departure

  • A weekend on Elbrus with an alpine club, or a 2-day course in the Khibiny or Caucasus to practise crampons

Equipment

Equipment is divided into four categories: technical climbing gear, critical trekking gear, important items, and optional items.

Technical (for the summit push)

  • Crampons — steel, adjustable. Rental in Kathmandu $30–50.

  • Ice axe — standard trekking type, 60–70 cm

  • Harness — sport climbing or mountaineering harness with padded leg loops for abseiling

  • Helmet — mountaineering, UIAA-certified

  • Jumar + descender + 2 safety lanyards + 3 locking carabiners

  • Double mountaineering boots (Scarpa Phantom 6000 / La Sportiva G2 EVO). Rental $60–100 or purchase $500–900. Standard trekking boots do not work on the summit.

Critical trekking

  • Trekking boots — well broken in, waterproof membrane, ankle support

  • Sleeping bag to −20 °C comfort rating. High Camp temperatures can reach −25 °C.

  • Hardshell jacket and trousers (Gore-Tex or equivalent)

  • Down jacket for camp evenings and the summit push (minimum 800 fill power)

  • Base layers — two sets; merino wool preferred over synthetic

  • Three-layer gloves: fleece inner + mid-layer + summit gloves

  • Sunglasses with UV category 4 protection (glacier-grade) + spare pair

  • SPF 50 sunscreen for face and lips

  • Water bottle 1 L + thermos 0.5–1 L

  • Personal first-aid kit: Diamox, dexamethasone (on medical advice), ibuprofen, anti-diarrhoeal, rehydration salts, plasters, your regular medications

Important

  • Telescopic trekking poles (two)

  • Head torch + spare batteries

  • Day pack 35–50 L + rain cover

  • Socks: 4 pairs trekking + 3 pairs warm

  • Buff for dust and sun

  • Gaiters — mandatory when walking in crampons

  • Wet wipes, toilet paper

  • Adapter for Asian power sockets

Optional

  • Book or downloaded playlist

  • Camera (DSLR is heavy but gives a quality summit shot)

  • Power bank 20,000 mAh

  • Small-denomination US dollar bills for tips

  • Energy gels or bars for summit day (4–6 pieces)

Altitude regime

The route climbs to 6189 m. Above 2500 m the body acclimatizes more slowly: pressure drops and there is 25–40% less oxygen. We schedule altitude gain to stay under 500 m per day above 3000 m and include acclimatization days.

Evacuation

The guide carries a link to Nepali rescue services and the insurance assistance line. The guide decides on evacuation at the first signs of acute mountain sickness (AMS) or injury. Each participant must hold insurance covering high-altitude evacuation up to 6189 m.

Before the trip

  • Insurance covering high-altitude evacuation
  • Medical clearance from a physician
  • At least 4 weeks of cardio preparation
  • Personal first-aid kit (we'll discuss the contents)

From

What's included

  • Base tour cost (no-frills lodge basis)

    USD

    $900

  • NMA Island Peak permit (in-season)

    USD

    $250

  • Kathmandu — Lukla — Kathmandu flights

    USD

    $0

  • Lodge accommodation and BC + High Camp tents

    USD

    $0

  • Meals above Namche

    USD

    $0

  • Climbing guide IFMGA/NMA + trekking guide

    USD

    $0

Optional extras

  • Double mountaineering boots rental (optional)

    USD

    $100

    Optional
  • Crampons/ice axe/harness/helmet rental (optional)

    USD

    $150

    Optional
  • Tips for guides and climbing sherpa (recommended)

    USD

    $275

    Optional
  • NMA summit certificate

    USD

    $25

    Optional
Total$900

The total shown is per participant. The exact price depends on the chosen date and group size.

Upcoming dates

Schedule is being finalised. Reach out to the guide for options.

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